Spain: Ponferrada to Cebeiro
Distance: 55km
Time on board: 6 hours 17mins
Average speed: 8.7 kmh
Cumulative distance: 8468km
Last night was a sauna sleeping in San Nicolas Flue Albergue. Therefore I slept in the dining room with other pilgrims. It is not only me who find it stuffing hot.
Bid farewell to my Chinese friends during breakfast. Probably this is the final time I will see them as I am only 3 days ride to Santiago. First 40 km was a gradual incline heading to the final mountain pass of the Camino. The Cebeiro @ 1300m
First stop 22 km at Villa Franca, bumped into the polish pilgrim whom I stayed with in Manjarin. After that, the Camino route converge with the National road NV 1, but there is barricade protecting the pilgrims on the road. I took the barricaded road, much smoother. Pass countless pilgrims along the way. At the pit stop for cars, a lady handed me a packet of biscuits. First gift from strangers in Europe.
Plowed on to Las Herrerias before the real climb commerce. When I skated uphill, I am faster than cyclists but I cannot last long. Until my muscles and endurance are strong enough to push all the way up. At Las Lamas, the sky opened. Seeked refuge in garden of a house. There are no one to seek permission from, thus I have no choice but to trespass. Had my biscuits given by the lady earlier on. The rain wasn’t going to stop anytime, I put on my rain gear and walked as Skating on wet surface can be fatal. Once again I alternate between walking and skating. The rain got heavier, seek shelter under the highway bridge. The rain never seem to stop. About to continue my way, the Mexican cyclist appeared, pushing his bike. Even the gradient is too steep for cyclist to cycle up. He got separated from his friend who went other Camino way. We were glad to see each other and hugged for warmth. Now at least I am not the only one walking up alone. Got some company to suffer together. I am not happy but with someone to suffer together made the ardous walk less suffering. Now I understand why people would get others to suffer together. He cycled on his granny walk which is slightly faster than me walking. I let him lead a distance from me before I skated to overtake him and then walked till he overtake. We took turns to leapfrog over each other.
False hope when we thought we arrived at Cebeiro. Actually it was Pedrafita Do Cebeiro, not the actual Cebeiro. Another 4km up. To made matter worse, the gradient got super steep amidst the Fog. Literally i couldn’t see the road few hundred meters away. For safety sake, I walked. Played leapfrog with trio of cyclists who passed us. Skate and walk again till i gave up chasing in the mist.
Can’t imagine the joy when I reached the peak Cebeiro 1300m. Originally planned to skate down another 27 km to Triacastela today but due to rain and fog, it is best to stop at Cebeiro for the night.
Can’t wait to find the albergue and have a hot shower. The shower was disappointing, just lukewarm at best. The wifi at Albergue is not working thus you probably read this the next day.
worldonboard 